Autumn Gold and Crimson on the Ancient Tokaido: Stone Paths, Fallen Leaves, and Warm Amazake

A fiery canopy of maple and beech leaves arching over the historic stone steps

At a Glance

Best Season: Early to Mid-November (Peak autumn foliage)

Recommended Route: Hatajuku to Moto-Hakone via the Ancient Tokaido (Ishidatami stone path)

Distance & Duration: Approx. 3.5 km | 1.5 to 2 hours (Moderate hike)

Must-Visit Spot: Amazake Chaya — A historic 400+ year-old teahouse serving warm, non-alcoholic sweet rice drink and toasted mochi.

Access: 35–40 mins by Hakone Tozan Bus (K Route) from Hakone-Yumoto Station to Amazake Chaya bus stop. (See full access & location details at the bottom of the page)
Ryokan Stay Tip: Located just minutes from Matsuzakaya Honten, or an ideal day hike before relaxing at Kinnotake Tonosawa.
 

The Ancient Tokaido—Stone Paths

As the summer greenery fades, Hakone transforms into one of Japan’s most breathtaking autumn destinations. While many flock to popular viewpoints, there is a far more poetic way to experience the season: walking the ancient stone-paved highway of the Hakone Kyukaido (Ancient Tokaido), framed by fiery Japanese maple and Japanese cedar leaves.
 

Once the primary trail for samurai and travelers during the Edo period (1603–1867), this historical path takes on a magical atmosphere in autumn. The crisp, invigorating mountain air, the scent of damp earth, and the gentle crunch of fallen leaves underfoot create an unforgettable sensory experience that connects you deeply with Japan's nature and heritage.

The Autumn Hiking Route: Walking Through a Tunnel of Colors The section between Hatajuku and Moto-Hakone is particularly enchanting in mid-to-late autumn. As you step onto the Ishidatami (stone-paved path)—laid over 300 years ago—you are immediately surrounded by a vibrant mosaic of crimson, burnt orange, and gold.

In autumn, the dense forest canopy creates a natural tunnel of glowing foliage overhead, with soft sunlight filtering through the leaves (komorebi). The contrast between the dark, mossy moss-covered stones and the bright red maple leaves scattered across the path offers endless photo opportunities. Walking quietly through this historic forest, away from the crowds, allows you to enjoy the peaceful solitude that makes autumn in the mountains so special.

A Cozy Autumn Haven: Amazake Chaya 

After a refreshing hike in the cool mountain breeze, the ultimate reward awaits at Amazake Chaya. Operating for over 400 years across 13 generations, this iconic thatched-roof teahouse feels like a warm embrace on a chilly autumn afternoon.

Stepping inside, you are greeted by the comforting aroma of burning wood from the traditional charcoal hearth (irori). 

In autumn, there is nothing quite like holding a steaming cup of their signature hot Amazake—a naturally sweet, non-alcoholic drink made from fermented rice koji using a recipe unchanged since the Edo period.

Pair your warm drink with Chikara-mochi (rice cakes toasted over open charcoal coals) topped with sweet soy glaze or fragrant kinako (roasted soybean powder). Resting inside this warm, timber-framed sanctuary while admiring the autumn colors outside is a timeless luxury—the exact same comforting highlight enjoyed by weary travelers centuries ago.

Access

Location & Address

Address: 395-28 Hatajuku Futagoyama, Hakone Town, Ashigarashimo District, Kanagawa Prefecture, 250-0522, Japan
 

Step-by-Step Directions from Hakone-Yumoto Station:

Board Bus: At Hakone-Yumoto Station, go to Bus Stop No. 4.

Bus Line: Take the Hakone Tozan Bus (K Route / Hakone Kyukaido Line) bound for Moto-Hakone Port or Hakone-machi Port.

Get Off: Alight at the Amazake Chaya bus stop.

Travel Time: Approx. 35 to 40 minutes (depending on traffic).

Bus Frequency: Departs every 20 to 30 minutes.

Travel Tip: If you prefer to hike first and rest later, take the K Route bus to the Hatajuku bus stop (approx. 25 mins), hike uphill to Amazake Chaya (approx. 50 mins), and then continue to Lake Ashi.

Complete Your Autumn Journey with Kinnotake Resorts

After a day of crisp mountain air, stone paths, and autumn foliage, the ultimate reward is retreating to a traditional Japanese hot spring (onsen).

Matsuzakaya Honten (Ashinoyu Area): Situated directly along the historic Tokaido route with over 360 years of history. Step right out of our doors and onto the ancient trail, then return to enjoy rich, sulfur-infused hot springs.

Kinnotake Tonosawa: Located near Hakone-Yumoto Station, it offers a serene bamboo sanctuary where you can soak in a private outdoor hot spring bath to melt away any fatigue from your autumn hike.

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